Andrew Gn: 70’s Luxe

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.4

Andrew Gn’s 2015 pre-fall collection added a dash of luxurious charm for a seventies inspired romantic affair with silk, sequins and motif.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.1

The collection something so special and unique, something that I still can’t put my finger on. Perhaps the fact that Gn drew inspiration from rich tapestries and had fabric specially manufactured for him, to help create a line dripping in authenticity and one of a kind artisanal styles.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.2

To help create the colourful woven motif used for the dresses, skirts and jackets, the designer worked with Italy’s Clerici Tessuto. To complete the looks, added decadence was given to the garments with graphic embroideries and hand-fringed trims.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.3

Spotted printed on the silk crêpe and satin by use of traditional techniques were Persian vein and Iznik ceramics that’s rooted in the tile-motif brocade and carnation flowers.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.5

The evening gowns were a grandeur display of medieval essence in the bustier ball gowns, some of which Gn dabbled with an Ikat-style motif in coloured sequins.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.6

Andrew Gn brought out a more youthful atmosphere to the bellowing hippie nostalgia with peasant blouses, shorts, cropped pants, cocooning coats and a flared pantsuits. Modesty and conservative looks were also given the luxurious revamp by soft intricate lace detailing.

Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.7 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.8 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.9 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.010 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.011 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.012 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.013 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.014 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.015 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.016 Andrew Gn PreFall 2015.017

Advertisements

Halston & Yves Saint Laurent Exhibit A Flair Of The 70’s

On February 6th, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology opened its door s to an exhibition dedicated to the 70’s by works inspired by the innovators and icons of fashion.

From films to books; being adored and loved acquainted by the evil eye, tabloid spreads fuelled by the press. This is marks the first time showcasing the works Halston and Yves Saint Laurent.

Halston + YSL Exhibition

The exhibition titled “Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70’s”, should come as no surprise with the era’s free & fruitful nature and style overruling the runways since the spring summer 2014/2015 fashion week season.

It was deputy director of the Museum at FIT; Patricia Mears and the assistant curator Emma McClendon who pointed out the significance and timeline difference between the two. With each of the designers’ timeline highlighting both Halston’s and Yves Saint Laurent’s achievements and accomplishments and fall from grace from the late 1950’s through till 1984.

Halston + YSL Exhibition

On the walls hang rare photographs of Halston in his first showroom, to the opposite end which sees Saint Laurent strolling the streets of Paris shot by Jean-Luce Hure. What makes both designers admirable, is their drive and ambition in their work ethic; being regarded as men often possessed.

Halston + YSL Exhibition

Halston’s’ determination and preferred taste for rendering a sense of exclusiveness lay in the fact of him only wanting his clothes to be adorned by women of status, the socialites and Middle America. With every such dramatic action, came an equal and ‘disastrous’ reaction in the form Halston losing his unique and exclusive charm on the rails at Bergdorf Goodman with the Halston Limited line to the designer’s name appearing on J.C Penny dresses. With 1984 marking what can be considered the end of the designer’s career; through legal contracts negotiated by Norton Simon, the designer was barred from contact with design and product, including that no product should bear his name.  Some have said that the designer himself spread himself too thin and too much of a perfectionist, not delegating tasks and struggling to keep up with demands.

Halston + YSL Exhibition

With 1984 marking the fall of one designer, it also marked an unexpected phenomenon for Saint Laurent. The metropolitan museum of art had presented the designer with his own retrospective, which was curated by Diana Vreeland; this was the first of its kind, as no other designer at the time could claim such an honour.

What people should take note of, according to Mears; is seeing that Halston’s’ clothing revealed what a great technical dressmaker he was, crafting garments of quality that held a visual simplicity. These items were able to look beautiful on any body type.  They were easy to wear items, enabling women to dress themselves.

With Saint Laurent’s work mimicking the easy to wear look and style, it was rather misleading. However the similarity of these designers came in the form of silhouettes that were used, also lead to the idea and concept behind the materials that were used. “Just the idea that they were using the same sort of materials and sort of concept… we think they were trying to find the vocabulary, which eventually comes out in their hallmark styles. But in the early years of the seventies – the late sixties and early seventies – they’re still looking for it, so a lot of the time you really have trouble distinguishing who did what.”

Halston + YSL Exhibition

Something more evident in Saint Laurent and his ready-to-wear as pointed out by McClendon; “He was looking at Rive Gauche as the laboratory where he could experiment with potential controversial or un-couture influences like exoticism and menswear and historical revival. Then it would go up to his couture.

At the time of course, an idea that played well in the ready-to-wear field was bound for success in the couture lines. This came about with the concept of menswear revival, with separates being important for Rive Gauche, the approach was rooted from a males’ way of dressing – it was in essence that one would be able to combine different suit tops and bottoms. By coordinating these pieces accurately one would be able to build a wardrobe around Yves Saint Laurent, creating new style and adding to some uniformity in the design.

Halston + YSL Exhibition

With similarities there are the evident differences, with Halston trusting in creating pieces that featured a timeless element, whereas with Saint Laurent some pieces could take to a more dated look.

From the exhibit you can expect the portrayal of Russian fantasies and Elizabethan ideals from Saint Laurent – striking but did stand the test of time. With also introducing a minimalistic aspect in the form of sweaters sets and skirts, as well as minimal day looks.

Halston + YSL Exhibtion

The Chinoiserie garments are the perfect example of minimalism styles from Saint Laurent, which the 1977 collection featured two dark evening ensembles in printed silk. From Rive Gauche however stands a fuchsia skirt and coat – these can be said to be early experimental ideas in ready-to-wear before they were taken to couture.

There is much to learn and explore within the exhibition, consuming soft, delicate silks from Saint Laurent and flowy chiffons from Halston – it’s a cleaner and what can be said to be more sophisticated approach to the 70’s. Fashion went from girdle classes for women in the sixties to a ‘freedom of the body’ in the seventies.

 

Peter Dundas’ Last Kaleidoscope For Emilio Pucci?

Peter Dundas (left) & Marco Zanini (right)

Peter Dundas (left) & Marco Zanini (right)

It looks like a new kaleidoscope of colour is headed to Emilio Pucci for a long term playdate. According to sources and the rumour mill, Italian designer Marco Zanini, who departed from Schiaparelli last November, is expected relieve Peter Dundas of his duties after he delivers what is rumoured to be will be his last collection for Pucci in Milan on feb 28th.

Emilio Pucci Pre - Fall 2015

Emilio Pucci Pre – Fall 2015

With speculation being that Dundas will be returning to Roberto Cavalli, no announcement from Pucci has been made.

Emilio Pucci Pre - Fall 2015

Emilio Pucci Pre – Fall 2015

Zanini has quite the résumé; from being tapped as creative director of Schiaparelli in 2013, to previously designing RTW at Rochas, as well as work experience at Versace, Halston and Dolce & Gabbana.

Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2014

Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2014

It should come as no surprise that Zanini is a contender for Pucci; with his work etiquette involving a playful use of colour and patterns he would fit right in. Another advantage is that Zanini holds no signature line of his own, which will see him entirely dedicated to the brand. However, when asked about contact or moving to the brand Zanini denied the allegations.

Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2014

Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2014

Another rumoured contender is MSGM creative director Massimo Giorgetti.

Puma X McQueen Add A Spring To Your Step

Third time is more than a charm for the collaborative effort between Alexander McQueen and sports royalty brand Puma.

Puma x McQ 1

The collection kicks off the Spring/Summer 2015 season with bold and divergent colour palette of orange and blue forming the basis, accompanied by the metallic textures of traditional PUMA designs.

The sporty mesh fabric is combined with premium leather, and topped with glow-in-the-dark finishings. The colour way also gives sense to 1950s Formica, but in ode to the late McQueen its more vibrant and has a modern edge.

Puma x McQ 2

Another praise for the late McQueen lies in the Rush Mid Low and Mid T models sporting graphic tyre print covers, moulded into the silver metallic foil.

Puma is now taking notes from new creative director Rihanna of course, and have certainly upped their game.

Puma x McQ 3

Reserved For Brooklyn Beckham

It was only a matter of time that Victoria and David Beckham‘s eldest son Brooklyn made his début into the fashion world. This comes hot off the heels after younger brother Romeo charmed us in Burberry‘s Christmas campaign.

The 15-year old has landed Polish-based fashion brand Reserved‘s Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. Brooklyn is the face of brands’ “Volcanic Explosion” line; which combines sportswear and fashion, targeting those with an active lifestyle and love for fashion – this basically makes Brooklyn the ideal candidate, who is an avid soccer player and with a mother like Victoria, fashion is defs in his blood.

Source: Reserved instagram

Source: Reserved instagram

The behind the scene snaps came via Reserved’s instagram feed, of which sees Brooklyn bringing out some laid back vibes in a plaid shirt, jeans and sneakers and then up-ing his game in sportier attire on a bicycle.

Source: Reserved instagram

Source: Reserved instagram

Prada Cast Ansel, Miles, Jack & Ethan For Spring

With Spring 2015 campaigns coming at us at full force, it looks like fashion giant Prada has carefully curated an exceptional menswear spring 2015 campaign with the finest of gentlemen and household objects.

Source: Official Website

Source: Official Website – Ansel Elgort Prada Spring 2015

Prada brings together four of Hollywood’s leading men to lend their onscreen presence in aid of a series of photographic images conjuring up their own secrets.

The Spring/Summer 2015 campaign features Ansel Elgort peeling a tangerine, whilst Miles Teller scribbles on his hand with a pen, Ethan Hawke cuts a postcard all while Jack O’Connell sips on a glass of water… alluring and mischievous.

Source: Official Website  Miles Teller - Prada Spring 2015

Source: Official Website
Miles Teller – Prada Spring 2015

The campaign which was shot between London and New York by Craig McDean, appropriately created a balance between object and holder with focus shifting to close-ups of hands, faces and placing emphasis on something unknown. According to the release; “As if the magical forces that make the world seem normal have, for an indeterminately short time, revealed their strangeness.” 

The leitmotiv of the collection lies in the stitching, which produces a graphic effect (within large, small, in contrasting colours) all transforming and mixing the classic codes to create new ones. With the addition of modern proportions and silhouettes that invoke the 1970s, it brings forth a sense of peculiarity.

Source: Official Website Ethan Hawke - Prada Spring 2015

Source: Official Website
Ethan Hawke – Prada Spring 2015

The images of muted colour changes to bold black and white, and then back again to emulate the four actors’ fragmented mental focus. The campaign portrays a silence, a space for secrets.

Well it is without a doubt there’s no fault in Ansel Elgort’s stars, Miles Teller leaves us Whiplashed, Ethan Hawke has grown out of Boyhood and Jack O’Connell has broken us…

Source: Official Website Jack O'Connell- Prada Spring 2015

Source: Official Website
Jack O’Connell- Prada Spring 2015

Dahui Li Brings You A Colourful Affair

A collection for the Spring Summer season should have two things: colour and minimalism. It should offer the wearer the ability to mix and match and still be able to carry the items through to the next year.This is where designer Dahui Li comes into play. Li is the brainchild behind the self-titled label with which has produced an effortless collection for SS15.  

Li obtained a BFA degree from Columbus College of Art and Design, and states that he always knew he wanted to pursue a career in fashion.

With his interest first being sparked by reading all the fashion magazines that his mother would bring home, and it can be said that through his mothers’ exceptional fashion taste when it came to fashion that drew him in more. With she hiring pattern makers and seamstresses to make her own customized designs, making her wardrobe unique and one of kind.

Dahui Li collage 4

With the concept of Dahui Li was due to an ode of classic design with a hint of subtle detail in order to portray individual femininity in each item. Li admires designers such as Anna Sui and Mary Katrantzou, with this becoming more evident in him drawing inspiration from contemporary art.

The SS15 collection is breathtaking, especially for brand that was founded in April 2014 and already having the first collection launched in September 2014. Stating that the goal for the brand is to add newness and longevity to the world of fashion. Giving the Dahui Li wearer the confidence and making the customer feel special.

Li states that in order to really make a brand it is important to have the following three things; great designs, industry connections and financial support. What separates emerging label from rest of the fashion industry; is that each piece in the collection has been inspired by the designer’s life and observation. The Dahui Li label brings into focus a design perspective and not on conforming to market needs.

Dahui Li collage 3

The evident motif in the SS 15 collection is the play on colour, with application of hues and shades bringing to life a contemporary RTW pieces. Colour is the main focal point as it is a reflection of the designer himself – positive and colourful. The designer explains that they wish that with all the colour combinations of their designs they are able to cheer people up and bring happiness to those that wear Dahui Li. With the SS15 collection inspired by Japanese artist Nobuhiro Nakanishi; multiple layers of fabric was used to create 3D images. With this brought together the use of colour and sharp silhouettes to give us an innovative collection for the upcoming season.

Currently the team is busy designing their FW15 collection which is inspired by New York 1920’s Chic mixed with contemporary geometric painting – something that I am personally quite eager to see!

As this is Dahui Li’s first collection, it was received with a good applause which boosted the brands confidence and enabled them continue to grow. When looking to the future the brand hopes to start selling at more places and for a bigger international market expansion. Stating that their greatest achievement so far is that their products will be sold in the UK, which has been one of the goals for the brand.

Dahui Li collage 2

With the clothing and textile industry known for its cut throat business; Dahui Li states that in order to survive and succeed a “design label must have its own identity, with designs that are consistent and most importantly always believe in yourself and be patient.”

Success to the Dahui Li label is when the people that wear Dahui Li feel special and happy, and then that’s when they have succeeded.

A breakdown of a day in the life of Dahui Li consists of answering emails, finding design concepts and preparing for next season collections whilst running factories for season production and sourcing and purchasing of fabric and trims – it’s evident that that this label lives fashion and is about to turn up the heat in the fashion industry.

Dahui Li collage

View the complete lookbook here

Ready to purchase the items?

The collection is available in-store and online at Wolf&Badger, online via Not Just A Label, as well as online via the The Black Alley. The Dahui Li online store will be opened in March 2015.